We chose to follow the historic horse cart trail that was established in the nineteenth century to link Assam and Bangladesh. The David Scott Trail, named in honor of the British administrator David Scott, is among the oldest trekking routes in Meghalaya. Unfortunately, last year was a disappointment for us regarding trekking opportunities. We missed out on all Himalayan treks, only managing the Baamikonda-Kalchukki Peak Trek and the Kudremukh Trek in the Western Ghats. However, 2018 began on a promising note with the David Scott Trail.
Meghalaya has always been one of our favorite destinations. With a week-long visit planned, we aimed to explore the state at a leisurely pace and discover some less-traveled areas. Walking the path of Mr. Scott seemed like the perfect choice!
David Scott Trail, Trekking in Meghalaya
History of the David Scott Trail
David Scott was among the first English officers dispatched to Northeast India during the British era. His work spanned nearly 30 years (1802-1832) and primarily focused on the Khasi Hills and surrounding regions. Under his supervision, a horse cart trail was constructed across the hills and jungles from Assam to Sylhet, now part of Bangladesh. This nearly 100 km route facilitated the transport of goods between the two regions.
This trail was also a focal point in the conflict between U Tirot Singh, the king of Khadsawphra Syiemship, and the British. The Anglo-Khasi War, which lasted almost 4 years, saw the Khasis, who lacked firearms and were armed only with bows, arrows, swords, and shields, face off against the well-equipped British soldiers. Unable to match the British military prowess, Tirot Singh and other Khasi leaders resorted to guerrilla tactics. The conflict persisted until Tirot Singh was captured and exiled to Bangladesh, where he died in 1835.
Location of the David Scott Trail in Meghalaya
Today, the David Scott Trail spans 16 km from Mawphlang to Lad Mawphlang and offers a delightful day hike. Starting from the charming village of Mawphlang, the trail meanders through hills and valleys with varying ascents and descents.
Our trek began in Mawphlang, an easy journey that takes about 4 hours. The scenery is breathtaking, showcasing Meghalaya’s lush landscape. The rolling green mountains, valleys, and crystal-clear waters in natural pools create a picturesque setting. A sparkling river accompanies us intermittently, sometimes vanishing only to reappear. The trek provides stunning views of the Umiam River and its valley.
As we departed from Mawphlang, we soon arrived at a resting spot named ‘Ka Kor Ka Shonmai,’ named after the daughter of Dorsing Lyngdoh, the first Lyngdoh with the British. After a brief hike, our guide BG pointed out a tomb erected in 1843 in memory of a child affectionately called Camilla. The initial part of the trek follows a winding gravel path with ups and downs until we reach a hanging bridge over the Umiam River.
Did you know Umiam means ‘flood of tears’?
Legend has it that two sisters were traveling from the upper world to the earth. One sister lost her way, and the river was formed from the tears of the grieving sibling.
The surroundings were incredibly soothing. About halfway through the trek, we reached the river—a great spot for a lunch break if you’ve packed some food. We rested for a while, crossed the river, and continued our hike. Along the way, we passed a few Khasi villages where we observed the daily lives of the locals. We stopped at the village of Lysoma and enjoyed some Maggi. At the trail’s end, we encountered impressive rock formations. Our guide shared that the Khasis are fond of their folklore.
– “We can craft stories from even the simplest rock,” our guide said. “We have many tales!”
Walking with BG, our guide, we listened to intriguing Khasi folklore. After approximately 4 hours, we reached Lad Mawphlang, concluding a beautiful journey and beginning a new chapter.
How to Reach the David Scott Trail
The trek can start in Mawphlang and end in Lad Mawphlang, or vice versa. The common route is from Mawphlang to Lad Mawphlang. Mawphlang is located 25 km from Shillong, accessible by shared vehicle from near Bada Bazaar or by cab. Lad Mawphlang, the trek’s endpoint, is close to Sohra or Cherrapunji, where finding transportation may be challenging. You might need to wait for a shared vehicle to Cherrapunji.
Is a Guide Required for the David Scott Trail?
While it is possible to trek without a guide, having a local guide is highly recommended. There are some confusing turns along the way, and a guide can also share fascinating Khasi stories. We had BG as our guide—a cheerful young man with whom I had previously explored the Mawphlang Sacred Groves. He humorously only revealed his initials, BG!
Best Time to Trek the David Scott Trail
During the monsoon season, the trail can become slippery and the river’s flow intensifies, making crossing more difficult. Otherwise, the David Scott Trail is accessible year-round. We trekked during winter, which is our preferred season.
